Travels with Shep: Chapter 21: Warwick Castle

Warwick Castle is unlike so many historical sites in the United Kingdom as it is operated as a tourist attraction by Merlin Entertainments, who consider themselves second only to Disney; they operate Madame Tussauds, the London Eye, Legoland, the London Dungeon, and Gardaland in Italy, plus 23 Sea-Life attractions. This may or may not be a negative, but it certainly ensures that Warwick Castle is busy with visitors this day in late September 2008 when the Millers and Gary and Cindy Parrish visit for the day. I was here at Christmas last year, during a quick, ten-day visit to my daughter, son-in-law and grandson. But Gary and Cindy are here from Canada and we need a break from ten days in Scotland and Ireland, before visiting London, so Warwick is a great choice.

Once again, the weather is beautiful and a day at Warwick Castle offers much to see and do.

Steve, Gary and I are wise enough to know that today's visit is being managed by Mary and Cindy, so we shall do as we are told!

Truthfully, as always, and rightly so, today's visit is about Sammy, and he adores Warwick. He looks forward to the archery, climbing the ramparts, seeing the Falconry, and eating in the carvery! But he will be patient with us as we visit the Royal Weekend Party, The Staterooms tour, and the Kingmaker and the Preparations for War displays. (He will pass on the newest multi-media presentation, Dream of Battle. He remembers it was scary!)

Cindy has brought Sammy a Moose t-shirt and he is proud of being partly Canadian--he spent one year in Wolfville with his Mom and with "Grampy" while his dad was away in Iraq; but he reminds everyone that he was born in Virginia: "I AM AMERICAN!"

There have been fortifications of some sort at Warwick since at least AD914, when Danish Invaders threatened the area and Ethelfleda, daughter of Alfred the Great, ordered the building of a burh to protect the nearby settlement.
The first actual castle was ordered by William the Conqueror in 1068. Henry de Beauchamp was made constable, changed his name to de Newburgh and became the first Earl Warwick. As I look through the historical associations, I realise how much of this history I studied in school as a boy. I still think it is too bad that modern students (in Canada) do not have to study much history. It doesn’t seem to have hurt me any!

By 1268, the de Beauchamp name returned in the form of William de Beauchamp, nephew of the previous Earl, and he began a 148-year dynasty. One of the most prominent de Beauchamps was Richard (1401-1439). He figured prominently in the story of Joan of Arc. In 1431 the English bought her for a ransom and it became Warwick’s task to oversee her trial for heresy and her subsequent execution by burning at the stake in Rouen. For years I taught George Bernard Shaw’s drama, Saint Joan, and Warwick was a very sympathetic character in Shaw’s view. It is a superb play and a useful instrument for instruction for senior students, although GBS placed an eternal curse on any teacher who dared to use his plays as “instruments of TORTURE!” (That must explain all my “bad luck” in life!)

In the 1440s the Castle passed to Anne Beauchamp who married Richard Neville. During the War of the Roses he helped depose both Henry VI and Edward IV and became known as the Kingmaker.
KINGMAKER 1471: The Grevilles were Yorkists, supporters of the House of York against Lancaster. For their support, Warwick rose to a position of great power and influence when the Yorkists won the 1st Battle of Succession and Edward became Edward IV. But by 1469 Warwick’s fortunes hand changed. Warwick found himself the King’s gaoler, imprisoning him for a time in the castle. Edward was released and Warwick fled to France where he served Margaret of Anjou, one of Henry VIII’s wives. He returned to England, put Edward to flight and restored Henry to the throne. Warwick became known as The Kingmaker, and it is these exploits upon which the biggest displays are based.
Edward landed at Ravenspur in 1471 to break Warwick’s hold on power. At the Battle of Barnet, Warwick was defeated by Edward and his troops; he was stripped naked and killed.
After his defeat the Castle was awarded to the Plantagenets, first George, the Duke of Clarence, and then his son Edward, who, as a pretender to the throne—it’s all complicated—was kept in the Tower of London and executed.

The Castle became the property of the Crown until Edward VI granted it to John Dudley, a member of the Protectorate which helped the 9-year-old king rule after the death of Henry VIII.
Edward died young but he managed to arrange that Lady Jane Grey be crowned. But Mary Tudor retained her rights, and Lady Jane and Dudley and his son were executed. Elizabeth I gave the Castle back to the Dudley family. But they left no heirs so it reverted to the Crown until 1604 when James was granted the now run-down fortress to Sir Fulke Greville. But this time the title of Earl was given to the Rich family (from 1618-1759). When Greville was murdered by his servant (see the Ghost Tower) Warwick went to his adopted son Robert Greville. The Rich family died out and eventually the title and Castle were reunited.

The castle was saved by extensive rebuilding and improvements started by Sir Fulke Greville and continued through the next generations. No longer of such military importance, the Castle became more of a stately home, with the creation of beautiful staterooms and apartments.

In 1978, the son of the 7th Greville Earl sold Warwick Castle to the Tussauds Group. Their obvious initiative was to introduce their famous wax figures into the castle, but they also did extensive restorations and opened parts of the castle not previously seen by visitors, starting the Royal weekend Party in 1982.

Guy’s Tower, to the top of which one climbs to see the countryside for miles around, is a 12-sided tower, 39 m high. Two shorter towers, the Bear and the Clarence, were meant to be much taller. They were started by Richard of Gloucester, the future Richard III, but work ended after he was killed at Bosworth in 1485. It is believed that bears were kept for bear-baiting in the Bear Tower.

Caesar’s Tower (14th Century) was built on orders of Thomas de Beauchamp. It has an irregular quatrefoil shape and is 44.8 m from solid rock outcropping beside the River Avon. There are three storeys topped by a platform with a crenellated and machisolated parapet. Visitors climb down through the tower after going up to the ramparts.

The Ghost Tower, formerly known as the Watergate Tower, was first built in the 14th century. Sir Fulke Greville was a prominent Elizabeth and Jacobean courtier (and writer) and spent a sizeable part of his income turning the semi-derelict castle into a stately residence.

James I was received here in 1617. In 1628 Greville’s servant stabbed him over a disagreement and he died 27 days later. It is said his ghost still haunts the tower in which he lodged. It is here that the Merlin Entertainments Group does live actor performances such as the story we saw this time, of the murder of Greville. Last Christmas, we saw a version of Dickens’ Christmas Story.

Two of the actors who perform the Haunted Castle "show" today. Once more I am startled by the performance, most of which is in semi-darkness inside. I jump the highest when an actor sneaks up on some schoolgirls inside and they scream. (Maybe I do, too!)

After the darkness of the dungeon and the Ghost Tower, I take a break beside the River Avon which runs alongside the castle. Here is the Mill and the Engine Room, where the Earl of Warwick built the water-powered generating plant in 1894 to provide electricity for his castle/home. It was abandoned in 1954 when power became available as mains electricity. In 2002 it was re-opened as part of a £2 million restoration.

Earlier I took a photo of the waterwheel and mill dam from inside the castle. There were rowers on the river, too, but I missed a photo.

On the island across from the castle is the functional Trebuchet. We leave before it is "fired" for the day. The Countess of Warwick collected a menagerie which she kept on the island over the River Avon. There were Japanese deer, an emu, raccoons, and ant bear and an elephant! Today there are ducks and swans.

Sammy first tried his skill at archery when we went to Sherwood Forest, but he is uncertain today until Gary offers him a challenge: if he scores then Gary will buy him a big ice cream in the nearby booth.

Sammy takes aim, shoots the arrow and savours his wonderful ice cream!

Today there is a special Birds of Prey exhibit, and we get to watch a falconer put his falcon through its paces.

We watch the exhibit from the Mound. The Mound was first built in 1068 on the orders of William the Conqueror, forming the major feature of the Norman Castle’s defences.

The Mound provides a good vantage point from which to see the island and the Warwickshire countryside.

For fun, a sword in a stone has been placed on the Mound, and here I watch Sammy try to extract the sword, He cannot, but I reassure him he would not have wanted to be a king anyway!

The original Victorian Rose Garden of 1868 was eventually covered over by tennis courts. But in 1986, with the original plans by designer Robert Marnock in hand, the garden was re-created. It was re-opened by Lady Diana, Princess of Wales.

I choose a moment to relax in the Victorian Rose Garden. Oh yeah, thanks to John Dortmunder for reminding me what T.S. Eliot wrote: "I grow old, I grow old/I wear the bottoms of my trousers rolled."

The Conservatory was built in 1786 and features a replica of the Warwick Vase, a magnificent piece of ancient Roman pottery excavated near Tivoli in 1771. The gardens here are gorgeous. It is the focal point of the Peacock Garden and looks toward the Pageant Field. Last Christmas an elevated skating rink was featured, built over the fountains and gardens.

Sammy is happy that his favourite peacock, "Frank," whom he befriended last Christmas, is still here!

Mary and Steve have visited Warwick Castle many times, but they still enjoy their visits and patiently follow Gary, Cindy and me around as we try to see everything.

I have mentioned in other chapters my anxiety about steep steps. Also, I wonder what Doc Doran would say about me doing this much climbing. (Hah! He would tell me to do it: I am in good shape! I just get a little winded and my apprehension is psychological, not physical.) We watch an old man with a cane start up the stairs before us, and we never find him slumped over in a stairwell, so no worries.

My favourite new word is "vertiginous" which I have come across in several of the British and Irish novels I have read this summer. This view defines the word. I feel uncomfortable even looking at the photo. Sammy would climb up on the walls of the ramparts and look over the edge if I didn't hold him down! I don't think Cindy is nervous at all, but Sammy assumes it is his job to take care of her, so he watches her closely.

Grampy holds tight to Sammy, in case Sammy slips and falls. It is clear that I am not the slightest bit nervous.

The Great Hall as it now is seen was first constructed in the 14th century. It was rebuilt in the 17th century and restored in 1871 after a fire. It is mostly the repository of weaponry and armour.

A child’s suit of armour, purportedly for Robert Dudley, affectionately known as the “Noble Impe”, the infant son of Robert Dudley, Earl of Leicester, court favourite of Queen Elizabeth I.

The magnificent Kenilworth Buffet made of oak by local craftsmen for the Great Exhibition of 1851. After the Exhibition it was presented to George, later the 4th Earl of Warwick, in 1852, as a wedding gift from the people of Warwickshire.

Once the guide realized we were Canadians he explained that many of us think these are moose horns--only if they have never seen a moose! Apparently, these were from an ancient critter and were discovered preserved in peat.

Oliver Cromwell's death mask. He was not preserved in peat. In fact, his corpse was exhumed from Westminster and it was hanged at Tyburn after the monarchy was restored. Oliver Cromwell was best known for his involvement in making England into a republican Commonwealth and for his later role as Lord Protector of England, Scotland, and Ireland. He was one of the commanders of the New Model Army which defeated the royalists in the English Civil War. After the execution of King Charles I in 1649, Cromwell dominated the short-lived Commonwealth of England, conquered Ireland and Scotland, and ruled as Lord Protector from 1653 until his death in 1658.

The horse is suited in 16th century equestrian armour made in Germany.

One of the displays is entitled “Preparations for Battle” and wax figures from Tussauds Studios illustrate all the steps needed as workers of every sort do what needs to be done to prepare for battle.

Seamstresses.

Being fitted for armour.

Food needs to be prepared.

The Royal Weekend Party 1898

From 1893 to 1924 the Earl of Warwick was Francis Richard Greville and his wife, Frances. The Countess Warwick (known as “Daisy”) gave lavish parties at the highest social levels. In 1898, the countess hosted a weekend party at which the principal guest was the Prince of Wales, later Edward VII. The party has been recreated in the 12 rooms of the former private apartments, and feature furnishings that were actually there in 1898, such as this desk, at which the countess may have written invitations to her guests.

The rooms are set up as if it is the day of the big party. Here, we see Daisy come into the Library to apologize for missing lunch, and speaks to the gentlemen in the room to prepare for the evening. At the far end of the room is young Winston Churchill. Others in the room are Spencer Cavendish, and Leopold Lord Brooke, Francis Greville’s eldest son.

Guests: The Duchess of Marlborough bids good-night to her baby, in the Chinese Bedroom. Consuelo Vanderbilt of New York married Charles Spencer-Churchill.

A servant drawing the Earl of Warwick's bath. Francis Greville married Daisy in 1881.

The Earl of Warwick waiting for his bath. Before becoming the Earl on the death of his father, he was a Conservative MP until 1892.

The Dowager’s Bedroom: Anne, the Dowager Countess, was the widow of the 4th Earl of Warwick, for whom this room was kept by her daughter-in-law whenever she visited the castle, having moved to London in 1893.

"Lizzie" drawing a bath for the Duchess of Sutherland.

The Guests, in the Ladies Boudoir: Millicent, Duchess of Sutherland takes tea while Lady Sackville-West catches up on her correspondence. Daisy, Countess of Warwick intended this room to reflect her passion for all things French.

Guests: In the music room guests are listening to Clara Butt, one of the most famous singers of the time. She is accompanied on the piano by Paolo Tosti, music master to the Royal Family. Turning the pages of the score is Lady Marjorie Greville, the eldest daughter of the Earl and Countess of Warwick. Seated on the sofa is Lady Randolph Churchill. Born Jennie Jerome, an American, Lady Churchill was Winston Churchill’s mother, a widow by this time.

The Guests: Field Marshall Lord Roberts readies himself for the party, in the Carnation Bedroom. Lord Roberts served in India during the Indian Mutiny (1857) was twice decorated with the Victoria Cross.

Guests in the Smoking Room: Charles Spencer-Churchill, the 9th Duke of Marlborough and owner of Blenheim Castle; he is chatting with his opponent at cards, the Duke of York. George was the second son of Edward VII, then still the Prince of Wales. He reigned as George V from 1910 to 1916.

The State Rooms.

Under continual extension, renovation and embellishment, the State Rooms are beautiful.

Not all of Tussauds' re-creations are historically valid. Here are all the wives of Henry VIII, together.

The Tussauds Studio's skill is wax works is evident in the face of this queen.

The Blue Boudoir with its Hans Holbein studio portrait of Henry VIII, and larger-than-life wax figure of the portly king. I did not realize that such portraits are not copies, but the studios produced duplicates or editions of the artist’s original.

Sammy and Queen Elizabeth in the Green Room. The Queen visited Warwick in 1996 and toured the multi-million pound Kingmaker attraction. In 2007 Tussauds opened the “Dream of Battle,” an immersive multimedia experiencing re-creating realistic medieval battles. I have seen it twice, and both times young children were terrified by the realism.

The State Dining Room was commissioned by Francis Greville in 1763. Distinguished guests have included George IV, Edward VII, and Queen Victoria and Prince Albert in 1858. The portrait at the end of the room is of Charles I, produced by Sir Anthony Van Dyck’s studio.

Details of table legs in State Dining Room.

The Red Drawing Room, refurbished in the late 17th century. On either side of the fireplace are two Italian chests called “cassoni”. Fitted to the front of the chests are painted panels in the late 15th century in Italy, the oldest paintings in Warwick Castle.

The Cedar Drawing Room with its intricate panelling was completed in the 1670s. The ceiling is Italian in style, the carpet a French Aubusson.

The Chapel built on the site of an earlier chapel, by Sir Fulke Greville.

The Chapel Pulpit.

Chapel detail.

Chapel stained glass.

Warwick Castle has lots of stained glass.

Each family whose members have been earls here, are commemorated in memorial windows. (As a sample, I chose the DUDLEY earls, because of my own family!)