Chapter 28: Back to Oxford: Magdalen College

Magdalen College must be the most beautiful of Oxford University’s thirty-eight colleges (and six halls) and the guidebooks recommend visiting this campus because it is typical and it is beautiful. I could not have chosen a more perfect afternoon to stroll through the College grounds: warm and sunny with the freshness of Spring. And it is a day of celebration in Britain: St George's Day!

Like most visitors—oh, admit it, “tourists”—I want to be knowledgeable about the places I visit. I knew there was something unusual about the name of this college: In the original 1458 charter the name was spelled Maudelyn and is still pronounced “maudlin” or “mawdlin.” I cannot hide the fact that I am a tourist: the students wear uniforms, the Fellows their academic gowns, and the visitors have digital cameras slung around their necks!

The Cloister or Great Quadrangle was built in 1474-80 and has been altered several times since then. In 1822, the north side was in bad shape, and was knocked down while most of the fellows were away from college (only a small group of fellows were in favour of demolishing it). It was rebuilt shortly afterwards. In the early 1900s, renovations were performed, and it was returned to a more mediaeval character. Student rooms were installed in the (very large) roof space in the 1980s, and are some of the most sought after rooms in the college.Looking out unto the Cloister Quadrangle.

The Grammar School, the sole remaining original element of Madgalen College School was moved across the River Cherwell in 1888. This is located just outside the Porter's Lodge, on St. John's Quadrangle, named for the Hospital of St John the Baptist which occupied this site from 1180, parts of which still remain.

The little river Cherwell runs alongside the College; behind me on this footbridge is Magdalen Bridge, where one can rent a punt to go punting on the river.

On the left is the New Building, so-called because it was built as recently as 1722! Its spacious setting is due to the builders' intentions to create an entirely new quad, but only one side was completed. C. S. Lewis had his rooms in this building. Seven of the Magdalen Fellows (teachers) have been awarded Nobel Prizes, including Sir Peter Medawar, Sir John Eccles and Seamus Heaney (1995).

The President's Lodging. (The Founder's Statutes decreed that the President must live apart from the rest of the College community; he was the only senior member allowed to marry!)

The wall of the old Gothic section of the cloisters.

The gateway to Addison's Walk. The Walk is named for Joseph Addison, 1672-1719, a Fellow from the college who enjoyed walking here. He wrote articles about landscape gardening for The Spectator. I do not take the pathways today: on another day I am coming back to Oxford to take the walk from Oxford to Wolvercote along the Thames, decribed in The Times last week as one of the UK's 20 best walks. Addison's Walk, here in the grounds of Magdalen College, was the site of a long conversation between J, R. R. Tolkien, C. S. Lewis and Hugo Dyson, after which C. S. Lewis became converted to Christianity.

Magdalen is also famous for its Grove (Deer Park). Deer have been kept here since at least 1705, and there are about sixty animals in the herd. They are not near enough today to see up-close, but there is something wonderful about such beautiful creatures grazing peacefully amongst college buildings and only meters away from students lounging on the New Building's steps.

The Hall, now the refectory, the tables being set for the evening meal. A portrait of Cardinal Wolsley, who started the Great Tower, hangs to the left. Not visible is the fireplace, over which hangs a portrait of Oscar Wilde, one of the College's famous alumni. Other alumni include Charles Spencer, 9th Earl Spencer, Dudley Moore, Desmond Morris, T. E. Lawrence and Andrew Lloyd Webber.

The Chapel was fitted out in 1820 by John Cottingham. I cannot go in, but at the far end is a painting by Léal, presented in 1745.
Inside the Chaplain’s Quadrangle. A modern statue of Christ with St Mary Magdalen by David Wynn.
The narrow archway leading out of the quad, the oldest part of the College on the left. This quad also provides access to the Great Tower. There are newer buildings in the College, including St Swithun's buildings (1888) and the Grove buildings, begun in 1995, but these are not accessible by tourists.

The 48m high, square Great Tower is a famous Oxford landmark, built 1492-1509, and it is a tradition that the college choir sings from the top of it early on May Morning (1 May). It starts early at 6am with the Magdalen College Choir singing hymns, ending with the College Grace “Te Deum patrem colimus” from the top of the tower, a tradition for over 500 years. Large crowds normally gather under the tower along the High Street and on Magdalen Bridge. This is then followed by general revelry and festivities including Morris dancing, impromptu music, etc., for a couple of hours. There is a party atmosphere, despite the early hour. (I wonder if there is a bus to Oxford this early, that I might be here for next week's May Morning festivities.)

I can stay here no longer today: it's time to cross High Street to the Botanic Gardens.