Thursday 2 July 2009

Chapter 32: East Anglia: North Norfolk

We have come to Norfolk because of torrential rains in Devon and at Glastonbury and Bath, our original destinations. (Besides, it turns out that it is the week-end of the Glastonbury Music Festival and we didn't have tickets.)

We spend the first night in Thetford in Breckland and love the Thetland Forest Park, full of twisted old Scotch Pines. (No, these are not Norfolk Pines!) The Thetford Forest is the largest lowland forest in the UK, (20,000 hectares) planted following World War I. It is a beautiful mix of conifers and broad-leafed trees and flowers of all kinds and apparently is full of wildlife. We keep hoping to see a moose, as signage warns us we might, but we see none. Much of Norfolk is forested with great pine trees. It reminds us of New Forest, minus the deer.


We have had only a few hours to plan our visit to North Norfolk, but I suggest we drive along the coast from the old whaling town of King's Lynn, on The Wash, first past Sandringham (where the Royals celebrate Christmas) to Hunstanton, supposedly worth visiting for the cliffs. My grandson is happy to run in the sand and find sea shells. I smile at the small, striped "cliff."

We continue driving what is called the Norfolk Coastal Tour, through the largely well preserved villages of Titchwell, Wells-Next-the-Sea, Blakeney and Cley next the Sea, through mostly unspoiled countryside.
Today we take the Poppy Line, the North Norfolk Railway run from Sheringham through Weyborne to Holt. It is beautiful countryside (here looking north towards the North Sea) but we have missed the height of the flowering of the poppy fields (for which the line is named). (I have added a Weyborne poppy field photo from a tourism site, just because they are so colourful.) We also are too early to see the full colour of the West Norfolk lavender fields, in brilliant bloom and fragrance in mid-summer.


The Sheringham Station was built in 1887 to serve the resort and vacation trade. As elsewhere, it was abandoned when the railways moved out. Fortunately, it has been saved and is restored as it was in the 1950s.

The stations are nicely restored and well maintained. Unfortunately, today's run does not use the much touted teak-bodied carriages, described as "the most important piece of heritage riding stock still running."

The UK has dozens of volunteers operating small railways such as this one. We have been on several and one has to admire the efforts by these train lovers to ensure that the rail history of England survives. The routes are always less beautiful than described, but always fun. (I wonder what all the coal smoke does to our lungs.)
We leave Sheringham and drive along the coast through Cromer and down through the Norfolk Broads. It is a lovely area of marshes and low population. We head towards Yarmouth, one of the key settings for Charles Dickens' David Copperfield and birthplace of Anna Sewell, author of Black Beauty. While noting famous sons and daughters, we miss seeing the monument and birthplace of Admiral Lord Horatio Nelson in Burnham Thorpe.
On our travels as a family, we always mix grown-up activities and activities for a seven-year-old boy. Thus, we are in Great Yarmouth, on the east coast of England, across the Channel from Holland. The Britannia Pier was built in 1858 and has had a very eventful history. It has survived being cut in two by ships not once but twice and has had to be renovated four times following major fires. Today it is a key feature of the Great Yarmouth seafront.I admit it: I love beaches, and even if Great Yarmouth is one of the tackiest, kitschiest places I have ever seen, the beach is fine, the water warm, and we have great fun.
Almost hidden in the fog, the pier looms over the sand and pebble beach. My grandson hopes to find shells, but there are none. We pick up colourful stones and stick our feet in the water, getting quite wet in the process. He says, "Grampy, I am having so much fun!" (He is the real reason I am visiting the UK.
One of Great Yarmouth's piers, the Britannia Pier, juts out over the sand. Obviously, the sea sometimes covers this sand, but apparently not most of the time. Although the beginning of a UK heatwave, the beach is nearly empty this Friday.
I am unaware that a popular children's activity on British beaches is donkey riding. Once we see the donkey ride there is no way my grandson will pass up this opportunity!





Like many, or most British piers, the amusement area on the Britannia Pier at Great Yarmouth has something for anyone who enjoys this kind of entertainment, including live theatre. But for my grandson, it is the rides, and the carousel that he enjoys most. (He did not notice that the "ceiling" of the carousel was painted with tacky nudes.) "Marine Parade is the vibrant focal point of Great Yarmouth's seafront, where hustle and bustle mixes with razzmatazz, where ice-cream cones and candy floss combine with sea and sand for the perfect seaside holiday." So proclaims the website. Frequently called The Golden Mile, this wide beachside promenade features casinos, amusement arcades, horrible fast-food eateries, and acres of plastic and neon. This is not for us, but is easily ignored for a few highlights that amuse the child (and grandfather.) My daughter refuses to eat supper anywhere near here, so we head towards Norwich after our afternoon here and find a traditional British Carvery in a village near our hotel near Drayton.

We leave Great Yarmouth through the Halvergate Marshes. I did not realise that England has so many windmills, of which there are a dozen or more dotting the countryside near Acle.
It is hard to trust what websites and tourist brochures and guidebooks recommend visiting anywhere, but in a book given me by my friend and former Principal, Andrew Clinch, mention is made of Bressingham Hall and its gardens and trains. We decide to trust the book and are not disappointed. In fact, this is a place to which one could easily come again.
My grandson loves the Victorian steam carousel, which originated in King's Lynn and has been re-built at Bressingham.


Bressingham also has a well-stocked museum, of steam engines and trains, in part devoted to the old British TV series, DAD'S ARMY. The set is re-created here, with real props and vehicles from the show. Above, one of the cars on a Royal Train on display. There are also several gigantic model-train set-ups, which my grandson and I both enjoy.


The Bloom family patriarch loved steam engines and the family has collected many for use and as museum pieces. Some, like the garden trains are small, narrow gauge engines; there are some full-size locomotives on loan and on display.





The Bressingham Gardens were created by Alan Bloom, starting in 1953, and by his son, Adrian Bloom, who runs the family business on the site, Bloom Nurseries. There are two major gardens, both at six acres: the Dell Garden and the Foggy Bottom Garden (named for the place of the same name in Washington, DC). One of the trains runs through the garden.

Below, in the Dell Garden, is the flintstone summer house with its thatched roof, beside an old weeping willow.

My favourite spot is the little bridge walkway, which is a lovely place for wedding and family photos.


Bressingham Hall, available as a B&B.

I have always loved gardens. I remember Maurice Dimock's lovely rose gardens which Pop kept up after we bought the Dimock House and until he left. I think there were over one hundred rose bushes plus the perennial beds at that huge Victorian home; but I couldn't keep it up. (Last year I had four potted plants on my tiny balcony. Sigh.)


We come home from Norfolk for a week-long UK heat wave; although only 33 degrees, it is uncomfortable, so no travel this week. Who knows where next?

1 comment:

ChrisGertridge said...

Oh how I envy you right now! such rich and vibrant landscapes all steeped in history.

I especially like the railway pictures, it is really nice to see that they are preserving their railway history for future generations to enjoy! I wish that they would do the same here in NS.

Thanks for the peak in to life in England, it is a real treat to see!